Aniceto Inigo-Johnson watched his grandchildren sample roasted chestnuts and listened to their giggles at the Plaza de España Christmas market.
“Every year, my entire family comes here—oh, they are all over the place,” he said, as the blue, yellow, and red lights from a glowing ornament reflected in his glasses. “It’s not Christmas in Madrid without these markets. The sounds, the smells—they’re a time machine back to my childhood.” As he spoke, his granddaughter, wearing a Santa beanie, ran up to jump into his arms.
Inigo-Johnson was one of the many Madrileños who, in early November, watched workers slowly start hanging lights around trees and building giant ornaments, reindeer (or llamas), and 35-meter-high Christmas trees. On Nov. 28, they watched as the decorations finally lit up.
More than 19,000 visitors surge through Madrid’s Christmas markets daily, creating a festive atmosphere pulsing with energy. Children tug at their mothers’ coats, pointing at an array of toys. Market officials report this year’s holiday crowds are 5% to 9% larger than in previous seasons, reflecting a growing interest in cultural experiences.
“These markets, and just the decorations on the streets, are what make Christmas here so special,” says Alicia Gordon, a bartender at a stall in Plaza de España who works at the market every Christmas despite holding a corporate job. “Everybody that comes to these markets is in a good mood, no matter what, and everyone is with someone special,” she says, smiling ear to ear.
The markets, sprawling across multiple city locations including Plaza Mayor, Puerta del Sol, and Plaza de España, offer tapestries, food, and goods for locals and tourists. Wooden stalls overflow with turrón, polvorones, and, of course, an array of sparkles—bracelets, necklaces, and rings.
In a small stall tucked between one filled with colorful plush toys and another with wooden and metal signs, Carlos Rosario is surrounded by his handmade belén. “A belén is more than a decoration,” explains Rosario, a master craftsman from Torrevieja who has been creating nativity landscapes for 30 years. “Each scene is a miniature world, with figures so, so small they fit on a fingernail, yet so detailed they breathe with life,” Rosario says as he balances baby Jesus on his pinky.
International tourists like Timothei Tkachev from Sacramento, California, find themselves captivated by the market’s charm. “I thought I was just going to see the same cheesy souvenirs,” he says, sipping a tinto de verano. “But this is something completely different. It’s like stepping into a living museum. So many diverse stalls—and just truly authentic, far more authentic than I expected!” he exclaims, holding a bag with a metal sign depicting Muhammad Ali fighting LeBron James—“so authentic.”
Another stall that surprised Timothei featured delicate hand-knitted wool and hand-carved wooden ornaments. Carmen Urquijo-Villanueva highlights the markets’ importance beyond tourism. “For small craftspeople like me, these markets are so important,” she says. “It’s about preserving our cultural crafts, something my husband and I enjoy so much. But we can’t quit our jobs for this, so this is when we can fully pursue what we love,” Carmen says, squeezing her husband’s hand as they sit behind a table of blue, red, and pink ornaments.
Madrid’s markets are also known for their hectic, noisy, crowded atmosphere.
“I come here for some last-minute shopping for La Nicolasa, but oh my goodness,” says Gabriela Soldo. “I keep forgetting how many tourists come, but it’s no more crowded than El Corte Inglés! I just need to make sure I don’t lose Matías,” she says as people bump into her left and right, with Matías hugging her calves in his festive red sweater.
As evening approaches in Plaza de España, the markets transform. Thousands of blue-and-white lights illuminate the stalls. Strings of lights overhead connect the stalls, while St. Nicholas and an angel weave through the crowd. Couples ice skate hand in hand, laughing as they struggle to skate without falling. Meanwhile, parents gather around wooden tables near the bars, stacking empty beer cups in the center of the table. Occasionally, they glance at the ice rink, looking for a reassuring smile or thumbs-up from their child, before ordering another beer.
Rosalía Azoy and her family originally planned to arrive later, but unexpected changes led to an impromptu market adventure with her mother and young daughter.
“The stress of the buses not working and the cancellation of our plans—ugh,” Rosalía begins. “But then we saw this market, and suddenly everything felt like a holiday miracle.” As closing hour approaches, around 10 p.m, the markets slowly die out. Vendors pack up delicate ornaments, tourists clutch bags filled with gifts, and the spirit of Madrid’s Christmas lingers in the crisp winter air. “This is Madrid’s magic,” Rosalía says, her eyes sparkling as she watches the Christmas tree shine. “A celebration of family, tradition, and joy.”
