As I stepped off the AVE onto the train platform, my heart didn’t jump.
My eyes didn’t widen, and my nerves didn’t tingle: I didn’t feel the excitement that usually overwhelms me when I travel.
It was my second time in Málaga. Don’t get me wrong—I enjoyed the city the first time around. However, my brief stay didn’t feel special, and nothing about Málaga charmed me enough to warrant a return. I believed I had seen and done everything there was to see and do. But because previous travel plans fell through, I found myself amongst Malagueños once more.
The sun beamed down heavily as I set off for the Historical Center of Málaga. Tired from the 8 a.m. train ride, I stumbled toward the cathedral. Though I had visited it last March, I was excited to return. The Cathedral of Málaga, also known as La Manquita, is a gorgeous Gothic-Renaissance structure with Moorish influence. The tall ceilings and stained glass windows are details I could marvel at endlessly.
Despite the cathedral’s grandeur, I remained pessimistic about my prospects: “I won’t see anything new, but at least I got to see this again,” I thought.
As my backpack weighed against my spine, I made my way to the hostel around check-in time. Weaving through cobbled streets, I happened upon an impressive plaza with a fountain, bordered by shops, cafes, and restaurants. Glancing at the street sign, I read the name of the center: Plaza de la Constitución. Already, I had found something new. Impressed by the plaza’s beauty and unfamiliarity, I continued the trek to my home for the weekend.
The next morning, I was jolted awake by an alarm. The night before, I booked 10:30 a.m. tickets for the Carmen Thyssen Museum. A year and a half ago, I had spent hours perusing the collection of the Museum of Málaga but never got around to the Thyssen. Entering the first room of the historical building, I was immediately fascinated by the collection. The artworks, mainly done by Andalusian painters in the Spanish Impressionist style, decorated the walls in splashes of vibrant color.
Walking through the museum, I gained a deeper sense of Andalusian culture simply by observing the scenes deemed worthy enough to immortalize for future generations. Courting rituals, traditional dances, seascapes, planted courtyards, and shipwrecks were all carefully documented in brush strokes.
Wandering out of the museum and into the surrounding areas, I was struck by echoing bells and the distinct smell of incense. Following the sound, I intercepted a religious procession for María Auxiliadora, the Virgin of Málaga. From balconies, people threw fragrant rose petals over the ornate statue of María. Underneath the Virgin, at least 100 men supported her throne. With each step, they rocked slightly, slowly inching forward underneath the intense weight. I joined the growing throng of onlookers, standing on my tip-toes to get a better view of the intricate parade. I was mesmerized by its order and precision; clearly, María Auxiladora was a significant figure in the city’s culture. As the procession continued out of my eyesight, I suddenly felt overjoyed that I got to experience Málaga once more.
I admit that I went into my weekend trip with low expectations. However, I was pleasantly surprised by the offerings of Málaga, even as a second-time visitor. Ambling through the historic streets without a plan or a place to be helped me to authentically discover the city, and most importantly, the rich culture of Andalusia.
